Our first oPORTOnity to visit this lovely city!
We are not good at travelling. So we chose Portugal to practice for two weeks.
Our first stop was Porto, and I didn't do any homework before. I just heard that this is an old town that produces a lot of Port Wine (which I don't like).
Now, as I write this travel diary, I remember that we spent three days climbing up and down hills. I googled together a must-see, must-do, must-eat list, which we ticked off one by one. It was a bit hit and miss.
The most beautiful thing I saw in the city was not on the must-do list, however. I found it when I turned off my GPS and got lost on purpose.
If you plan to visit Porto, mark my words: before you leave don't forget to use your own eyes to watch the sun set over Porto from the bridge. The sun will shine bright in your memory.
波多,酒很多很多 不擅長旅行的米卡和我,今年選擇葡萄牙來練習兩個星期,第一站是＿波多。 行前沒做任何功課,只聽說是個甜酒很多的城市(可是我偏偏討厭的就是甜酒) 回想起來,那三天爬山下山的走遍整座古城 靠著google來的必去旅遊景點,必吃美食,一一達陣(或該說被地雷狂炸) 但最讓我印象深刻的還是自己憑直覺,亂走出來的意外驚喜 若你也有計劃拜訪這個浪漫的城市 離開前,別忘了用眼睛帶走那抹山城後的夕陽 讓回憶永遠發光發亮
The days before we left the Netherlands were rainy and cloudy. Just when we were holding our boarding passes, the bright southern sun was calling out to me: Portugal, here we go!
It was almost midnight when we landed at Porto airport. We caught the last train to the city centre. It was Saturday, and the train was crowded with young people, obviously ready to go clubbing. It occurred to me that being young is a great thing. You never get tired. Our hotel is located close to the city hall. The building, over 100 years old, looks like an embassy of a big, important country. I have to compliment the hotel: Fabulous location, decent price, and our room (on the 6th floor) had a balcony with a great view over the square and the city. By the way, the bright dots on the picture aren’t stars: they are seagulls!
Here’s a sight that Google won’t tell you about, which attracted my attention. As you walk the streets and look up, you see a granny sitting by the window. You may wonder, what is she looking at? Is she looking at me? Our generation connects to the world by mobile phone. But this generation doesn’t use smartphones: they just grab a chair, sit by the window, look out and observe what’s happening in the world directly around them. That’s so fascinating and old school!
According to the Internet, this is what you have to eat. I have to say, I’m a person who eats everything, and I eat a lot, but not this. Too salty, too oily, too fat. It’s toast with cheese, ham, lots of French fries, and to top it off, they pour a lot of sauce over it. If you insist on experiencing this, I would suggest not to eat it by yourself. Share!
To celebrate my baby’s birthday, I looked for a gimmick at “Flying Tiger”, who are great for this stuff. I told my boyfriend I wanted ice cream, and when we sat on the square, I pulled out the candles from my bag and stuck it on top of his ice cream, which was almost half gone by that point already. I sang “Happy Birthday”, and threw confetti. I was standing downwind, however, so the confetti all came back at me. It’s a little bit stupid, but his smile made it all worth it!
It’s been called the most beautiful bookstore in the world. But as we all know, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. If you like old, it’s beautiful. Such a small bookstore, crowded by tourists snapping pictures, you’ll always in someone’s way when you try to look at a book. This beauty is sweaty. Eslite is still the best.
Lello & Irmão Bookstore 這間號稱世界上最美的書店,但個人覺得美的定義很廣,而且很不一樣;因為夠老所以很有味道沒錯,但當整間小小間的書店因觀光客擠爆,連翻本書都要被推擠的時候.這美就有點讓人有些汗流浹背了些,有去看到就好,台灣誠品書店還是最棒滴。
To go port wine tasting, you cross the famous Ponte Luis I bridge to the other side of the river. Then I recommend to take the cable car down, which saves you a bit of walking, and you get a free coupon to go port wine tasting. Fabulous! Even more fabulous: the wine houses may have live Fado performances. The singer even came to our table to toast with us.
從市政府為起點,過了ponte louis橋,搭個電纜到山下後便是最著名的波特酒莊,電纜票還會附贈品酒卷,可以少走很多步路,又可以喝免錢的酒,why not?更棒的是酒商公司正值旅遊旺季,不時的有live fado演唱,酒酣之際還可以聽傳統葡式音樂,歌手不時會來一一敬酒.讓我想到台灣傳統”辦桌“時,主持人也會這樣做,只是唱的是雙人枕頭,噢～～我是思鄉病發作了嗎？
This museum is famous for its modern art as well as for its big park. I think we got unlucky: when we visited, they were just changing the main exhibition, and the villa (which you can see in the background of the picture) was also closed for maintenance. What little we could see of the art was interesting, but you may want to check the website before going.
Once again, following googled advice, we visited this museum. You can safely skip this one. The paintings aren’t terribly inspiring, the building is old and the presentation of the art is a bit random.
I put my phone in my bag, deciding to get lost, and then found this coffee shop. When you first walk through the door, it looks a bit empty, but keep going and the room opens up to a bar and tables. In the backyard, plants climb the walls. Some people read, others draw — the atmosphere reminded me of Taiwanese coffee shop culture. Not too commercial, very relaxed. Casa de Lo also hosts events: club nights with DJs, movie screenings, and so forth. A must see in Porto.
就在我把手機收進包包,故意迷路時發現的咖啡館;起初路過覺得門口怎麼這麼空曠,往裡頭再看,卻有個戶外的天井,爬滿藤蔓的圍牆旁,有意沒意的放了幾張椅子,有人在看書,有人在畫畫,這樣的氛圍讓我想起了台灣的文青咖啡館,完全沒有商業氣息,卻有好濃的咖啡香。再稍作研究之後,這裡果真是當地文青們的聚集地,不定期舉辦各種活動,若你機會來到波多,一定要來這裡坐坐。 address： Travessa de Cedofeita nº20A facebook：https://www.facebook.com/pages/Casa-de-L%C3%B3/113942273792?sk=timeline
A local store selling “green, indie, vintage” goods. Compared with the cork products you can being offered everywhere as souvenirs, this store amazed me. They sell handmade notebooks, vintage furniture and household items, all made in Portugal. I bought a vintage children’s school notebook. The owner wrapped the notebook in a brown paper bag, stamped the logo on it, and then cut off a dried flower and taped it on the paper bag. So beautiful — and all that wonderful service for a 1-euro notebook. She handed me the bag and said: “Detail is important.” After being treated so nicely, it would be a crime not to promote this store.
這是一間當地的純手作獨立雜貨店,比起大街上玲琅滿目的橡木製紀念品,這間店真是讓我像撿到寶的歡喜,裡面有賣生活雜物,手作筆記本,復古傢俱,大部份都是百分百葡萄牙製作的商品,還有很多可愛的熱帶植物。我在這裡買了一本像是小學生練習寫字的習字本,老闆將它小心地放在印有店章的牛皮紙袋後,還剪下店裡的乾燥花把它貼在袋子上,看起來真的好美,心想不過就是台幣30塊的筆記本,還可以有這樣子的服務！隨後老闆將它遞給我的時候,說一句“細節很重要”,光是這樣,不宣傳這間店就太不夠意思了！ address:Tv. de Cedofeita 28, Porto facebook：https://www.facebook.com/coracaoalecrim
According to the locals, the Portuguese eat a lot of fish or beef, usually with both rice and French fries. Vegetables, if you get any at all, are just decoration. The price is very cheap, though. PS: If you want to eat a lot of vegetables, do your own cooking.
Just when we were getting desperate about places to eat, my boyfriend used Foursquare to find this new restaurant. The rating wasn’t high because it was new, but the reviews sounded good. So, on our last night in Porto, we just took a gamble that it would be good. It wasn’t good: it was amazing. The place was beautifully decorated, and the plates, cutlery and glasses all matched. Chatting with the waiter, we mentioned that we didn’t get enough vegetables in the previous days. He suggested petiscos, the Portuguese version of tapas. We dined on tomato rice, codfish cakes, sautéed vegetables, salmon on brown bread, and baked mushrooms with cheese. The desert was another highlight: Sweet potato pudding with caramel sauce and mandarin ice cream. At the end, the waiter asked if we liked everything. I screamed out loud: “We loved it!”
You can see this kind of bar everywhere in Porto, but listening to a band jamming isn’t something you see everyday. We saw and heard them play while we were having dinner at Raiz, and as we were waiting for the check, I just could not wait any longer, abandoned my boyfriend and went to listen. It seemed that the players knew the owner. They were sitting, sipping a beer, playing traditional music. The owner even came out of the bar to sing with them. The street became a concert hall. No need to wear a tuxedo or have hi-fi audio equipment. The music was spreading out and touching the whole neighbourhood.
The last evening before leaving Porto, my boy suggested to go for a walk. We walked across the Ponte Luis I bridge, and the timing was exactly right to see the sunset. He probably picked the exact time to try out his new camera. I think everyone on the bridge were holding a camera to capture the moment. Just as we thought the sun had set behind the hill, we walked just a little bit, and that was enough to see the sun again. So we chased the sun across the bridge and saw at least five sunsets. Finally, on the other side, we put down our electronic gadgets and just used our eyes to take in the moment.