WILD PARTY IN LISBON

You may think of Lisbon as a quiet, romantic city. But they can party, too.

After we left Porto, we took the train to our next destination: Lisbon. On the 1-1/2 hour journey I was thinking about what my boyfriend had told me about the city. He said it was romantic in its own special way: the ancient #28 tram, old neighbourhoods with narrow street, and a certain air of melancholy. It made me wonder how I would experience that romantic nature.

If you think of our travels as Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, then June 12 would be the dramatic part of the “Summer” piece. This city is pretty is pretty wild.

里斯本週末夜狂熱 離開了波多,我們搭乘著火車前往旅行的第二站＿里斯本 一個半小時左右的路程中,我想起米卡對我說過關於這城市的景致 他說這是個很浪漫的城市,有復古的28號電車,古樸的街道,空氣中滿溢著濃烈的咖啡香 說得讓我神往著,究竟這個浪漫的古城,要如何電擊我的交感神經 若說旅行的節奏像韋瓦交響樂的四季,那麼在6月12日聖安東尼節的這一天 便是最激情的夏季 里斯本的浪漫,意外的竟是這樣的狂熱

Once we arrived in our B&B, we immediately dropped off our suitcases and then went out to walk through the city, which looked like a mess. There was a girl wearing a red cardigan, holding a snack, with a loyal dog sitting next to her. I could hear her talking to the dog. Waving her hand up and down, it felt like she was talking about something very important. She didn’t notice the guy (me!) taking several pictures. A view like a postcard that you can see everywhere in this city.

到了下榻的民宿後,我們迅速地放下手上的行李;便開始馬不停蹄的遊走著這個像是迷宮似的古城。 才沒走多遠,小巷裡彆見一位身穿紅色毛衣,手拿零嘴的小女孩,與坐在她身旁忠心的小狗,聽見她不斷的對身旁的小狗狗滴咕著些什麼,她舉手投足間說得好生動,完全沒發現站在身後的我,早已按下了好幾張她可愛的身影,像明信片般的風景,在這裡處處可見。

Mercado da Ribeira is a famous, hundred-years-old traditional market in Lisbon, rebuilt in 2013. It now features fancy restaurants. You could say it has all of Portugal’s cuisine in one place. We tasted the much talked-about Arroz de marisco, the Portuguese version of the Paella. I felt it was too salty, though, and lacked refinement.

Mercado da Ribeira 是里斯本有名的百年傳統市場,2013年改建後,裏面進駐了很多餐廳(很像是台灣百貨公司裡的美食街那樣),可以說是美食懶人包,到里斯本該吃該買的這裡通通有,我們也不免俗的品嘗了所謂的“葡式海鮮飯”,或許葡國料理講求的是食材的原味,所以除了基本的調味料外並沒有用酒去腥,整盤吃下來我並不是感到很有愛。

The week of our visit coincided with the feast of St. Anthony. Everywhere, you can buy these small potted plants of basil with a paper flower on top and a small note with poetry. I don’t know the original story behind it, but my boyfriend googled it and the poem says: “Basil that given to you is love that is wanted to be given to you. You receive the basil - Love is waiting.” Such a poetic image! I cannot stop myself wondering, do people compete with each other how many potted basil plants they get? 這個六月正逢葡人紀念天主教聖人聖安東尼(里斯本的守護神)的時期,大街小巷都會擺放或販賣像這樣子的盆栽(葡萄牙版的甜羅勒),上面會放有點像康乃馨的紙花和一張寫有詩句的紙條,詳細的典故難以考究,但有首葡文的詩是這樣寫的：Manjericão que te deram, amor que te quenem dar….recebeste o Manjericão. o amor fica esperar-意思是:送給你這個羅勒,代表著一個想給你的愛.當你收到這個羅勒,你要知道有個愛,正在等著你。好美的意境,我忍不住想像若是以情人節來比較,可能這裡比的不是誰收到巧克力比較多,而是比收了多少個盆栽了吧。

As Taiwanese, we were once all crazy about Portuguese Pasteis de Nata. Now that we are in the country that invented it, I have to eat a lot of De Nata, every day. I’m not going to tell you anything that you can also read on Wikipedia. Pasteis de Belem is the place to go for the original taste (since more than 100 years). But if you ask me where you can have the best De Nata in Lisbon, I strongly recommend Mantegaria, which is in the city centre. Words fail me to explain how good it is. You just have to try yourself.

這個讓我們台灣人曾為之瘋狂的葡式蛋塔,來到發源地里斯本;當然要吃到回本,而且是天天都要吃!(我是這麼發下宏願的),關於蛋塔的由來維基解密有詳細的資料,這裡我就不多說。於是我們也不免俗的跑去拜倫體驗這百年好口味。可是,若要說最好吃的蛋塔,我和米卡一致認為在市中心的這間Manteigaria蛋塔專賣店,賣的才是人間美味;新鮮出爐是必然,那酥脆充滿層次的外皮,和鬆軟卻扎實的卡士達內餡,只能親身體驗,文字無法傳遞這強大的滋味啊（吶喊） address：Rua do Loreto 2,Lisboa facebook:https://www.facebook.com/manteigariacamoes?fref=nf

This monument is located in Belem. Prince Henrique stands in the front with 32 adventurers behind him. You see on the picture how big this monument is. This is my favourite picture of Lisbon: blue sky in the background, and the image cut in half by the monument. On the left are the adventurers who lead into the future, on the right is the one that I love. It feels like we are on an adventure ourselves, and with him I can just walk on all the way to the future.

位在拜倫區的這個“發現者紀念碑”,以恩里克王子「站」在紀念碑的船首位置，在其的東、西兩邊均雕有32名航海時代的冒險家;從照片上米卡和雕像的對比,就可以知道這個紀念碑有多大。 這張照片是我在里斯本最喜歡的一張,襯白雲的藍天當背景,畫面被紀念碑一分為二,左邊有著引領未來的偉人,右邊則是我一身的最愛,就像我們仍在冒險奮鬥的人生,可能波濤洶湧,或晴空萬裡,有他的引領,我們就可以不斷地往前走。

We did not have high expectations, considering the disappointment in Porto. Cough Soares dos Reis cough. On the contrary, this was really interesting. The exhibition was well organised, by period and showing different techniques. What left a big impression on me (not on my boyfriend, by the way) was the naive painting style. Also I noticed that the Portuguese love to draw angels. Every angel looks like they have a strong personality, when you look at their eyes closely.

原本想著這個國家級的博物館,只可能會像我們在波多時所見到的一樣失望;沒想到卻意外的有趣！規劃完善的瓷磚,依著各個年代,風格,展示的同時也可以看到各種瓷磚的製作工法,而最讓我印象深刻的不是那華麗的花紋圖樣,反是有個時期他們流行著小朋友的塗鴉風格,線條簡單,配色鮮明大膽。發現他們真的很愛畫天使,而且每個天使的眼神都有很微妙的差異,非常的有個性。

The original Portuguese grilled chicken. What can I say? If I am too specific then I feel I don’t respect the local cuisine. Personally, I still think that Taiwanese grilled chicken is best! If you miss this one, don’t worry. It really doesn’t matter.

正宗的葡式烤雞,又稱“霹靂霹靂烤雞”,該說什麼呢？講太具體好像又對當地文化不尊重,我還是覺得台灣得土窯雞最好吃！這個麻…沒吃到真的沒關係,真的沒關係。

Embaixada is a large house full of local independent designer boutiques. Every time I visit a city, my favourite thing to do is to look for local independent designer products. It’s the same price as ugly, cheesy souvenirs, but it’s more special, delicate, and reflects the local style. Here’s how we found this place: in the Bairro Alto, we wandered into a small pottery shop. We bought a few bowls, and just before leaving asked the owner for any advice on where to find similar shops. He recommended Embaixada.

Embaixada是里斯本的獨立文創設計師複合店(類似松煙誠品),每次到一個城市,我最喜歡的就是找獨立設計師的創意商品;同樣是買紀念品,獨立設計師的作品,具有少量,精美,又每每反映著當地特色文化,因為沒有買旅遊書的我們,在有次逛到本地的陶瓷工作室,順道問了是不是有這樣的地方,店主很熱情地告訴我們這間位於里斯本北區的Embaixada,有機會到里斯本,記得來這走走。 web:http://www.embaixadalx.pt/

I’m not quite sure if Lisbon is the only place in the world that has sardines, or if the people in Lisbon are just crazy about sardines. Because of St. Anthony’s festival, there were lots of people grilling sardines outside in the streets. So I ordered a grilled sardine, and everything became clear: the base is sardines that have just been pulled from the sea, and the seasoning is the passion of Lisboans! You eat it with bread, let the taste of the barbecued fish explodes in your mouth, and sip a local Super Bock beer, while the Latin music vibrates through the street. For just two euros, I got an orgasm of happiness.

我不確定是不是因為沙丁魚只產在里斯本,還是里斯本人很愛吃沙丁魚? 這中間的關鍵讓我著迷！正逢葡人歡慶“ 聖安東尼節”,到傍晚後家家戶戶都在烤沙丁魚,索性在我點了炭烤沙丁魚後,一切都有了答案！ 這裡的沙丁魚,用現撈的新鮮當招牌,再配上里斯本人的熱情當調味,夾在最簡單的熱狗麵包裡,一口咬下去所釋放的鮮美與碳烤香,再配上幾口當地的super bock啤酒,耳邊環繞著冬滋冬滋的拉丁音樂,快樂的氣氛圍繞著整座城市,這台幣60塊的沙丁魚,讓我的味蕾體驗到最激情的幸福感動。

From the window of our apartment, we could see one of the stages that were set up for St. Anthony’s festival. On the day when we arrived, we saw people building the stage, and the neighbour had already started to sell sardines and bifanas. You could tell immediately that people were already warming up for the big party. As the day came closer, the music from outside got louder. Since I’m afraid of noise, I felt miserable. This is not what we were expecting from Lisbon. It’s supposed to be a quiet, romantic and a little bit sad city. How come they were setting up for pogo dancing? On the 12th, around 8pm, the DJ fearlessly turned the volume all the way up and the whole city became a disco for 12 hours.

從我們住的民宿窗外,正好是聖安東尼節活動中的其中一個主場地。 在第一天到的時候,看見人們忙著搭建舞台,但樓下的鄰居竟然已經開始在賣沙丁魚和豬扒包,可以感覺到當地民眾已經迫不及待為了6月12號的這天在暖場。隨著時間一天天的逼近,窗外傳來音樂的bass聲也越來越大聲,怕吵的我,這些天也因為這個活動讓我有些吃不消,畢竟這和我們原本預期的里斯本,完全差了好大一截,本該是個浪漫帶點憂傷的古城,竟在這個時候蠢蠢欲動的準備大跳豔舞,就在12號當天傍晚8點左右,DJ終於可以肆無忌憚的把音響轉到最大聲,整個城市陷入了一陣長達12小時的週末夜狂熱

當想像與現實產生落差的時候,難免會感到失望,這便是我原本一開始最心裡的感受。在我的想像裡以為里斯本是座浪漫的海港古都,而現實竟是這麼的喧嘩躁動;看著窗外擁擠的人群像沙丁魚擠在罐頭裡,高分貝的拉丁音樂刺痛著我的耳膜,就在我感到失望的時候,樓下拿著啤酒正在跳舞的一群人,突然對我舉起了酒杯,向我招了招手！示意著快來享受這份不用錢的歡樂時光(至少我是這麼解讀著)！ 突然間我想通了,旅行就是各種無法預期的可能,總合出屬於你自己的人生體驗,為什麼要執著于自己編造出的故事情節,『活在當下的意義』-像是打開香檳時所聽到的＿砰一聲！吼答啦！ 催促著米卡,快讓我們變成擁擠沙丁魚中的另外兩尾！我們走進了跳舞的人群,大口吃魚,大口喝酒,隨著音樂擺動著我們像是殘障的四肢,原本應該是3分鐘的路程,我們花了將近30分鐘才到達,擁擠的程度就像是看跑去101看跨年煙火一樣,不同的是就算真的不舒服,但大家的臉上都帶著笑容,我不小心很大力的踩到陌生人得腳,除了馬上道歉,對方卻向我竪起了拇指微笑說沒事。動感的音樂變成抒情的情歌,路邊的燈光也因細雨變的迷濛,城市裡所有人的情緒瞬間緩和,就在這時這刻,浪漫變成永遠永遠的畫面。